Should You Declaw Your Cat?

Somewhere in the first year to 18 months of a cat’s development, cat owners will face the dreaded decision: to declaw or not to declaw? And a look behind the history and reasoning for this procedure does not make the question less agonizing.

Celebrated animal writer Roger Caras wrote in his bestselling book Cats of Thistle Hill that declawing is an acceptable alternative to euthanization, since it gives the cat owner a viable choice when faced with the prospect of allowing a cat to tear away at the furniture for the whole of its life. Opponents of the procedure have condemned this theory, arguing that there are more than two alternatives and that the declawing option is a lengthy and traumatic experience for the cat.Declawing, or onychectomy, required a 36-hour veterinary hospital stay and involves the removal of the terminal bone of the cat’s toe (opponents have correctly pointed out the equivalence of this removal to the amputation of human fingers at the first knuckle joint). In exchange for the assurance that the cat will sharpen its now-nonexistent claws in the domicile, the cat sustains an impairment of balance, loss of the use of scent glands in the front paws, cessation of all climbing abilities and a gradual weakening of leg muscles, with all effects accelerated in indoor-only cats.

Moreover, the procedure will usually confine an outdoor cat to permanent indoor living because it renders them defenseless to threats from aggressive animals. However, the reasoning behind the declawing process is not limited to cat-owner convenience. A cat’s paw can be affected by a variety of inflammatory conditions and infections, prompting a declawing process in order to save the animals’ life.

Opponents of the procedure are in favour of declawing only in these severe cases of illness.Studies conducted on declawed cats have revealed additional negative symptoms to the aftermath of the declawing procedure. In almost all test cases, cats were hyper-aware of their situation and made steps to compensate for the loss, often leading to aggressive episodes. Several cats searched out any exposed metal in the house and continually sharpened their teeth, followed by more frequent biting episodes, while others continued to venture outside to become involved in confrontations resulting in injury. One positive sign was that several cats were observed to adjust their own stalking and hunting procedures for such common prey as birds and mice, pointing up their resilience following injury and trauma.Declawing opponents have had a strong effect on legislation around the world: today the procedure is illegal or tightly regulated in much of Western Europe, including the UK, Germany, Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden, the Netherlands and Finland, as well as most of Australasia. It remains prevalent only in North America, where approximately 25% of household cats undergo the procedure. The opponent lobby continues to grow in the US, and as a result many municipalities have begun to outlaw the procedure.If you’re a cat owner struggling with a declawing dilemma, you may wish to invest on scratching posts and place them strategically around the house until you make a final decision.  

Preventing Mouthing, Nipping and Gnawing

Biting, nipping and mouthing are absolutely normal for growing dogs. Like human babies they discover the world by putting things in their mouth. The also nip to alleviate dental pain.   However these behaviors are not so normal in an adult dog and could mean that the dog is nervous, afraid or needs a dental check up.  Many bite simply because they are cutting new teeth.

Gnawing on things helps soothe the gums around the teeth, and loosen baby teeth as well. Many baby teeth are chewed and swallowed along with whatever they else the puppy is chewing; so do not be alarmed if your puppy suddenly seems to be missing teeth and you can’t find the lost tooth anywhere  It is quite easy to train a puppy not to bite you.

Most puppies will recognize that you are in pain if you simply make a squealing noise or say “ouch.”   Make sure you withdraw your hand away immediately the second you are nipped. This lets the puppy know that the biting is unacceptable.

It also helps to immediately substitute your hand with something that is right for the dog to chew on like a rawhide chew toy.  Sometimes a puppy will try to mouth or gnaw in you because t he wants to play. If you anticipate the bite coming, say the command “Off!” before he can chomp you.

Quarantine a puppy that bites in order to get the animal to  equate the idea of loneliness with nipping.  It is also important to make sure that you or member of your family are not actually encouraging your puppy to nip and bite by offering their hands to the animal to gnaw or chew.    You may be encouraging him to nip by playing chase. You may be encouraging the dog to nip at your heels. This can soon turn into a full-fledged problem when the dog grows older and responds to a running human by biting his legs or nipping his heels.  You can also encourage this nipping by teasing him. Don’t hold the dogs toys out of range and make him jump for it.   This trains you puppy to believe that nipping makes a person drop things that they want , such as food they may be eating or cooking,  Dogs that are orphaned or torn away from their mother before the acceptable eight-week nurturing time with mom is up may not have learned what is called “bite inhibition”. Usually the mother dog teaches her puppies not to bite by disciplining him if he bites his littermates.

If your dog was allowed to remain with mom and his littermates for an appropriate amount of time (until at least 8 weeks of age), then mom should have taught him the beginnings of bite inhibition.  Nipping is quite common with adult dog but particularly in puppies. I believe the best thing that you can do is to encourage acceptable behavior by discouraging the unacceptable behavior. Don’t hit a dog for gnawing you especially one that is teething.